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Coupler question, F&C boxcar

From Jim Pasquill
Sat, 30 Nov 1996

> Joseph, do you remember which coupler? Looks like the #1027 could fit
> after some fi(dd)ling.
> Also, did you remove the small 'lumps' before drilling holes for the
> grabirons, or am I missing something here.. I would think that small
> dimples were better for starting the drill :-)

If you want your trucks to sit under the boxcover in a more or less prototypical manner, shave down the beams at each end. When you are happy with the height of the car mark the level of the coupler with a Kadee (Micro-Trains) standards gauge and then carve out the center beam to the right level. I use standard 1023 couplers which allow the trucks to swing to about a 20″ radius. (do all the carving before you add the delicate parts).

The lumps are bolt castings. The grab holes should be drilled under, over, or to the inside of the bolts depending on the plans. The plans for the F&C #85 is a generic plan from an old issue of RMC. The plans in the kit for the #121-145 car are the same generic plans from the first kit and vary greatly from the actual boxcars. Correct plans appeared in the Gazzette in the past year or so.

Cynoacrylic glues work well on these kits.

Jim Pasquill

Addendum, Sun, 1 Dec 1996
I made a mistake in describing the coupler mounting on these cars. If you use a 1023 Kadee on the frame nestled into the beams and carve down the rest of the beams, then only the coupler restricts motion of the trucks. The trucks will rotate to handle a 16″ radius, not the 20″ radius I mistakenly printed in my earlier notes. 16″ is good enough for my railroad and allows me to keep my cars low over the trucks.


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